The next layer starts closer and pulls back, then again, etc. I start further out and pull the paint into the recesses. The recesses are where I focus the most as that’s where armor is more likely to rust.
It also gives you a lot of control over how strong it goes on. The medium creates a glaze with the Terracotta so I can apply it in even thin coats easily. Now, it’s time to start getting the rust effect look on there.įor this step I use Terracotta (V), which is a ruddy, reddish-brown, and thin it out with Lahmian Medium (GW) – about 50/50.
I took less than I intended, but you should be able to see the Typhus Corrosion around the shield lip and parts of her armor in these shots. I apologize about the lack of pictures on this step. You could also use a sponge if you don’t want to stipple. I then stippled that onto the shield to create chips in the paint. I did this in a few layers to build it up in spots and make it extra gritty.Īt the same time, I also took Rhinox Hide (GW) and mixed it with Abaddon Black (GW). I take Typhus Corrosion and apply it in the recessed areas of the armor, anywhere that I feel would retain moisture and in turn corrode the armor. It has little granules in it, so when it dries it leaves a gritty texture. Games Workshop has a great technical paint called Typhus Corrosion. It has a large belly, so it can hold a lot of wash, which saves you from having to continually load up the brush. I also like to use the Citadel Shade Brush for this. Really, just wash everything with this, well unless it’s not meant to be rusted.
The brown wash over the blue does well to dull it down and give it a dirty feel. I’m aiming for dirty and gritty, so go as heavy as you like here. The easy step, just wash everything with Agrax Earthshade (GW). Plus, I thought it would give a little visual interest in places to break up the rusted look. I did it to see how well I could weather it to match the rest of the armor. You could totally skip painting any part of the armor in a color and just leave it all metal. The shading was done by mixing in some Abaddon Black (GW) with Regal Blue. The shield and shoulders have some really simple blending on it starting with a base coat of Regal Blue (GW), blending up to Enchanted Blue (GW), with a little Electric Blue (V) at the highest point. The armor is base coated with Leadbelcher (GW). Here’s the 6 simple steps to painting rust. The commission earned helps maintain this site. It’s very easy to do for painters of all levels from beginner to veteran.ĭisclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. I present to you my tutorial on painting a realistic rust effect metal/armor.
#How to paint on signs in rust video game plus#
I didn’t have all the paints that were used in that tutorial, so I knew I had to do some minor adaptation, plus put my spin on it. I saw a great tutorial on painting corroded armor and I knew I had to use that for my Shadespire warband. Instead of the typical gold armor with Stormcasts, I opted for something gritty, something that didn’t scream we are humankind’s saviors. I prefer those who walk a grey to black line, not a white one, so when it came time to paint Steelheart’s Champions, I decided I wanted to change it up. I’m not a bit fan of the good guys in games. The fun part with that is it’s a great time to experiment with painting techniques, to try something different, like this rust effect technique I decided to use on the miniatures. It’s also really easy to paint up a warband for it since some of them are only 3 models, like these Stormcast Eternals – Steelheart’s Champions.